Mount Silisili was always going to be one of those adventures for Vaea Footprints that test something much deeper.
We had been looking forward to this journey since the beginning of 2026. There had been planning, training, fundraising, organizing gear, talking with our partners, and, of course, plenty of conversations about what we were actually getting ourselves into. After all that preparation, Thursday 10 September finally arrived.
Our day started early. Very early.
We had booked the 8:00am ferry to Savai’i, so by 6:00am five trucks and one van, all owned by Vaea Footprints members, were making their way from Apia towards Mulifanua. We had accommodation booked for that day, so missing the boat was definitely not part of the plan.
We boarded the big Lady Samoa and quickly discovered just how tight things can get when a ferry is packed. The vehicles were squeezed so closely together that some of us could not even open our doors. But somehow, that only made the trip more entertaining. Since we were parked beside one another, the whole hour across was spent chatting, laughing, and enjoying the morning. Thankfully, the sea was calm, and the trip across to Savai’i was smooth.
We arrived at Salelologa Wharf, unloaded, and gathered everyone in the parking area for a quick briefing before heading towards Vaisala. Some of the vehicles needed fuel, and we made a quick stop at Frankies Salelologa to pick up the remaining essentials and food for the hike. By around 10:00am, we had everything we needed, including plenty of water, and we were on our way.
The drive took us through the eastern side and towards the northern side of Savai’i, passing Itu-o-Tane, Asau, and eventually Vaisala. By midday, we had arrived, and it was time for lunch and, more importantly, some rest. We knew the real challenge was still ahead of us, so hydration and recovery were going to be important.
Some members who had travelled separately arrived later that day. Once everyone had gathered, we completed another briefing. It was also at this point that reality hit us a little. We had originally discussed a group of 30 hikers with the organizers, but a number of people had pulled out at the last minute. In the end, 10 people had cancelled, including five members and five non-members. That was a third of the numbers we had previously confirmed with the village.
It was disappointing, especially because we had standby people who could have filled those spaces earlier, but by then it was simply too late to make the changes. It also created challenges around camping equipment, food, and other resources that had already been organized.
Still, the show had to go on.
After lunch, including what became a rather memorable size-two pig at the hotel, a few of our executives drove back to Aopo to meet again with the village pulenu’u, Fa’aulusau Eteuati. We wanted to consolidate a few final arrangements before the walk the following morning.
That conversation was one of the highlights of the day.
We had a really good discussion with the pulenu’u about Mount Silisili, the current hiking operation, and, most importantly, his vision for the future of the mountain. We came away feeling that there are opportunities to improve some aspects of the trail and the overall operation, and that was exciting for us because conservation is something Vaea Footprints genuinely wants to contribute towards.
We may not have all the answers or solutions, but sometimes filling just one gap can help strengthen and reinforce a system that is already in place. For us, that is part of what this journey is about. It is not only about reaching the summit. It is also about understanding the place, the people, the environment, and how we can contribute.
By 7:00pm, everyone had gathered in the dining area for our faigalotu and final briefing. We went over the plan again, confirmed our departure time, and checked the essentials for the morning. The plan was to meet at 4:00am, load the vehicles, and arrive at the pulenu’u’s house by around 5:00am.
That night, everyone returned to their rooms and went through their checklists again.
And there was a lot to check.
Each person needed at least five liters of water and food for breakfast, lunch, and dinner on Day 1, plus breakfast for Day 2. Then there were tents, sleeping bags, clothing, and all the other essentials needed for a two-day mountain adventure.
Our food packages included dry and canned food such as two tins of tuna per person, biscuits, bowl noodles, chips, nuts, Up & Go, and fruit. Individual food quantities varied depending on personal consumption, but one thing was non-negotiable: enough water.
Hydration was going to be critical.
We also checked the two first aid kits to make sure they were properly stocked and ready.
At 4:30am on Friday morning, we left the house. The roads were almost empty, and the drive to Aopo took about 25 minutes. We arrived at around 4:55am, right on time, and the Aumaga Tuulemaaga – A’opo were already waiting for us.
The Aumaga had their own internal team talk led by their ta’ita’i aumaga. They were preparing themselves mentally for the journey because they were not simply accompanying us. They were also going to be our porters, helping carry some of our gear from the hut to the campsite.
By 5:30am, everyone came together for a huddle. Our vice president led us in prayer, asking God for guidance, protection, and a safe and successful two-day journey. We wished each other a safe hike, and the sui ta’ita’i aumaga, Elia, shared a few words before handing over to one of the failauga of Aopo, Pili Tagi, who would lead the hiking trip.
Then the pulenu’u stepped forward once more to wish us well and convey the blessings of the village of Aopo.
At 5:50am, five Vaea Footprints vehicles, three Land Cruisers, and two Hiluxes were loaded with our team and members of the Aumaga Tu’ulema’aga o A’opo.
The next 30 minutes took us along a rough inland road towards the hut, which would be our final vehicle parking point before the hike. Along the way, we saw some very dry farmland and plantations, including an Ava Samoa farm. We also passed an area of approximately five acres that had been affected by a fire a few weeks earlier. The locals told us that FESA had responded because the fire had become a major incident.
Then, as we approached the hut, the landscape changed.
We were greeted by a beautiful sunrise beneath the large aoa trees surrounding the hut. The weather could not have been better. Not a single drop of rain. The trail was dry and in excellent condition for climbing.
We completed a head count, checked that everyone was accounted for, and made a final assessment of what needed to be carried to the campsite. The Aumaga gave us a few final words of encouragement.
At 6:30am, we started walking.
We gradually entered the Aopo rainforest, climbing steadily behind the Aumaga. From the beginning, we had a structure in place within the Vaea Footprints team: the lead, the main group, and the sweeper.
Our lead team consisted of Fraser, Maiava, and Satuala. Tupuola, Lesa, Nice, and So’o were with the main group, while Paulo, Silipa, Austin, and George made up the sweeper team.
And we made one thing very clear from the beginning.
This was not a race.
We were also fortunate to have two medical doctors, Dr. Terry and Dr. Tilomai, with us for the hike. Both kindly volunteered their time to join the team and help look after everyone throughout the journey.
We were going to move according to the resting places along the trail, keep the group together, and allow everyone to move at their own pace.
The route was divided into sections with four main resting points, and before we started, we had prepared ourselves for what could potentially be a six-hour journey from the hut to the campsite.
The first section took around 25 minutes. We reached the first resting point, identified by the large aoa tree, and stopped for about 10 minutes to drink water and catch our breath. The terrain here was rocky but generally stable, with mostly good soil and only a slight incline. The roots of the trees seemed to be perfectly positioned to help with balance as we climbed.
Of course, we were also carrying most of our own gear.
Once the sweepers arrived, we regrouped and continued towards the second resting point. Another 30 minutes passed, and by then the sweat was flowing freely. Every step was taking us higher, and as the elevation increased, the air gradually became cooler.
The lead group reached the second resting point first and waited for everyone else to arrive before moving on.
Another 10-minute rest.
Another drink of water.
And plenty of laughter.
The jokes and banter between the Vaea Footprints team and our Aumaga friends never seemed to stop. In a strange way, that laughter became part of our strategy. It distracted us from how demanding the climb actually was.
Because yes, it was intense.
But it was manageable.
Slowly. Steadily. At your own pace.
The second resting place was marked by a decent-sized stone, roughly 50cm by 80cm, covered with a red jacket. The locals refer to this spot as the tu’ugamau. Everyone had reached it by around 7:30am, and the elevation was already approximately 1,200 meters.
That is higher than Mount Vaivai, the highest peak on Upolu.
We rested again for about 10 minutes and waited until the sweepers reached the back of the group before continuing. We also decided to leave a few water bottles at this point, knowing that we would appreciate them on the way back down on Day 2.
Then came the first real challenge.
Straight after the rest, we faced a sharp incline leading towards the third resting place. It was steep enough to feel like we were climbing another 100 meters in elevation, although that was simply how it felt in the moment.
Fortunately, the weather was on our side.
There was absolutely no rain, and that made a huge difference. Along the steep sections, we often found a small tree sticking out at just the right place or a line of roots perfectly positioned to help support our weight when we needed an extra handhold.
Had the trail been wet, it would have been a completely different story.
At around 8:30am, we reached the third resting place. Everyone was doing well, and there was a growing sense of excitement because we knew we had already conquered a significant part of the climb.
One more major resting point stood between us and the campsite.
We continued upwards, gradually climbing several hundred metres before reaching another incline. By this point, our legs were definitely starting to burn.
And remember, we were carrying most of our own gear.
For many other hiking groups, porters carry the majority of the baggage to the campsite and back. We decided to do things a little differently. We had been training for this, and part of the challenge was to test our own limits. The Aumaga were generous and offered to carry more of our gear, but we also wanted to share the load with them, especially because they were carrying their own personal belongings too.
The next incline was shorter, but it was certainly not easier.
We pushed on.
The jokes continued.
The sweat continued.
And with every meter, the air became cooler.
We were now approaching the 1,500-meter elevation mark.
Still no rain.
Still smiling.
Then, at around 9:30am, we reached one of the most famous points along the trail: the moli.
This is the Samoan orange tree found at this high elevation, surrounded by other endemic trees. It has stood there for a long time and has become one of the most talked-about landmarks along the Mount Silisili trail.
We found it still standing strong.
After surviving countless weather events and whatever else nature has thrown at it over the years, the moli was still there waiting for us.
Of course, nobody was going to walk past without taking a photo.
From there, we rested briefly before continuing towards the campsite. The trail began passing through areas that looked like dried-up streams. There was no water flowing, yet the rocks were covered in thick moss. We had to walk carefully because those sections were slippery, and some areas had loose rocks that made every step more important.
What was fascinating was how green the forest still looked despite the dry conditions we had been experiencing. Compared with the much drier areas closer to the main road, the vegetation around the mountain remained remarkably lush.
We crossed the dried stream sections several times, and the loose rocks, or ma’a lusi, made some parts increasingly unstable.
Then ahead of us came another distinctive landscape.
The exposed lava field known as the ‘au mu.
This is also where the famous wild berries grow.
Just before reaching it, we passed through the only noticeably swampy section along this part of the trail. This was linked to the opening of one of the small craters downstream from the ‘au mu.
By 10:00am, we had reached the lava field.
And there were blueberries everywhere.
The berry plants were relatively short, around a meter high, and appeared to be flourishing. Many were fruiting, although the berries looked somewhat dried by the dry conditions we had been experiencing through September towards the end of the dry season.
Standing there at around 1,600 metres above sea level, we could see Mount Mata o le Afi in the distance.
Using the Garmin GPS, we confirmed the elevation.
The environment around the lava field was fascinating. Ferns and many other plants had established themselves among the lava, creating an incredible contrast between the harsh volcanic landscape and the life growing across it.
The lead group moved ahead fairly quickly because the sun was now becoming stronger after 10:00am. The main group and sweepers, however, took more time to explore, collect some berries, and carefully make their way across.
And “careful” was definitely the word.
The lava field presented one of the higher-risk sections for injuries. The surface was sharp and uneven, with loose rocks and holes that were sometimes difficult to see. A number of people stumbled along the way, so we slowed down considerably and focused on every single step.
This section of the trail was particularly exposed, with the route crossing an open lava field where there were no large trees or areas of natural shelter. With virtually no shade available, hikers were left fully exposed to the hot sun, making this stretch of the trail more physically demanding.
The distance from the ‘au mu to the campsite was not particularly long, but the terrain demanded attention. One wrong step could mean a serious scratch, twisted ankle, or worse.
At around 10:30am, the first of our lead hikers reached the campsite.
A little after 11:00am, the sweepers had arrived.
And what a relief.
We had all made it safely.
What we thought might take six hours had taken us roughly four hours.
Four hours of steep climbing, sweat, heavy backpacks, sharp lava, loose rocks, laughter, teamwork, and plenty of determination.
We were tired.
Our legs were sore.
Our shoulders were sore.
But our spirits were high.
And mentally, we felt stronger than ever.
The sun was now high and strong, and there was no cloud cover to protect us from the heat. Thankfully, at approximately 1,600 meters elevation, the temperature was noticeably cooler.
By 11:30am, everyone was busy setting up camp. With the help of the Aumaga team, we put up our tents and tarpaulin and began settling into our temporary home in the mountains. There was also a shared toilet facility at the campsite, along with seven tents kept under the shelter to support the camp.
Finally, we could give our legs a break.
But the journey was far from over.
We had reached the campsite, but Mount Silisili was still waiting for us.
The next challenge would be Day 2: the early morning chill, the summit push, the conditions higher up, the view from the top, and everything that came with waking up in the mountains.
For now, though, we could sit back, breathe, look around, and appreciate what we had already accomplished.
Above everything else, we were grateful to God for carrying us safely through the first part of this journey.
This hike was about preparation, perseverance, teamwork, friendship, culture, conservation, and discovering just how far we can go when we move together.
And if there is one thing Mount Silisili reminded us on Day 1, it is this:
You do not always need to be the fastest.
You just need to keep moving.
Vaea Footprints — Walking Our Heritage, Together.
Day 2 is coming next.
